Review: Santouka Hokkaido Ramen, Seattle, WA

June 29, 2026 ~ Frank Cioffi

At Santouka, they take their broth seriously.

The best tonkotsu broth in the Seattle area.

I happened upon Santouka (Back Bay location) years ago as I wandered around Boston seeking a place for lunch. While not my revelatory first Tokyo ramen experience, it was a memorable early ramen moment. I promised myself I’d revisit Santouka if in Boston again.

Lucky for me, Santouka has two Seattle area locations near my home. I’ve gone twice and can confirm that its focus – “the white tonkotsu soup which you can slurp until the last drop” – is indeed worthy of promotion. The first clues are the five large, steel broth vats on display behind the glass kitchen divider at the University Village location.

The rich broth and attention to detail I remembered from Boston were apparent on my recent visit. Santouka’s website explains that its “pork bone broth is simmered for 20 hours until it is pearly white” and only then are vegetables, dried fish, kelp and other ingredients added.

I’m guessing some ramen restaurants take shortcuts, perhaps cooking their broth for only 12 to 16 hours. Santouka sticks to the original recipe it’s founder developed in 1988. While it’s impossible to determine how accurate this is, the proof is in the quality of the broth. I found it to be rich, subtle yet powerful, with a delicious lingering umami. Salt levels are imperceptible. Salt can be a quick fix for a lesser broth; that it’s used so sparingly is testament to this soup’s overall quality.

Rich and creamy is what you want in a tonkotsu broth, and that’s exactly what you get. The purity of the flavors shines through. I’ve had tonkotsu with more complexity than Santouka’s, but few with such a rich, tongue-coating pork flavor. The company hails from the island of Hokkaido, yet their broth compares with the best of Fukuoka, the originators of tonkotsu.

The restaurant offers a variety of menu options. I ordered a tonkotsu miso set with egg and a side of gyoza. I wasn’t thrilled with the haphazard plating of gyoza, but that thought subsided as I tasted the broth: the blending of katsuobushi (fish shavings), miso and other flavors was perfectly balanced. Whatever the exact recipe is, it hits the mark.

The chashu was tender with a nice light char and a tasty layer of fat. The egg comes in a separate plate and was nicely done. Booths are spacious and have padded seat cushions. I appreciated the comfortable chair at my table. The restaurant is clean with friendly, efficient staff.

Santouka is a well-run ramen chain with six locations nationwide. They’ve quickly become a favorite ramen spot in Seattle.

https://www.santouka-usa.com

Ramen Club 5-Star Rating System:

Food: 3.75 stars

Service: 4.00 stars

Atmosphere/Comfort: 4.00 stars

* RATINGS LEGEND: 1 star: weak * 2 stars: just ok * 3 stars: good * 4 stars: very good * 5 stars: superb or special *

Review: Ramen Ishida, New York

February 16, 2026February 16, 2026 ~ Frank Cioffi

Nearly perfect chicken broth shoyu. But just one misstep.

Chef-owner Yohei Ishida opened this tiny ramen shop in 2017 to acquaint New Yorkers with what he calls New Tokyo Style Shoyu Ramen, characterized by a clear shoyu broth made mostly from chicken. Given his background with Ippudo, it’s understandable he’d want to specialize in an alternative to Ippudo’s ubiquitous tonkotsu.

Given my habit to default to tonkotsu, Ramen Ishida seemed like the perfect outing. I went with my sister and we both ordered the signature bowl.

The “New Tokyo Style Shoyu Ramen” had a wonderful clear broth, shoyu with a pork and chicken base and a splash of truffle paste. The flavors were reminiscent of my Tsuta bowl, one of my rare transcendent ramen experiences. The truffle paste was a delightful complement and became more prominent as the meal progressed, but was never overpowering. Tiny bits of truffle remained at bottom of bowl at the end.

The noodles were thin with medium firmness and folded gently in waves. The egg was near perfect, the menma crunchy. A shiso leaf completed the picture.

I was loving this bowl until I tasted the chashu – a slice of pork and two slices of white meat chicken. Both had grill marks, but had minimal flavor and were dry. The pork chashu, to its detriment, had no fat. I got the feeling a lot of care went into this bowl, but that the chashu was an afterthought.

Chashu should never be this dry. Unfortunate.

This was unfortunate because if the chashu was at the level of the rest of the bowl, this would have been one of the better ramen experiences I’ve had all year. Other bowls offered included Umami Miso, Spicy Mushroom Pork, several vegan bowls and even a Ramen Salad, with no broth but a choice of dressing.

Variety of ramen offerings at Ishida (on a separate non-digital menu!).

The pork bun appetizer we had was OK, with slightly juicier pork slices in an OK brown sauce. Nothing special.

Ramen Ishida is a hole-in-the-wall place that seats 8 at makeshift counters. It’s a bit cramped, and there are those red stools again! Service was swift and efficient. As we were dining in early October, Halloween decorations covered the walls (Halloween is a BIG deal in Japan!).

The vibe from the owners and staff is friendly. It’s definitely a worthwhile destination. On my next trip to NYC, I’ll go back and try some of the other offerings, hoping – this time – all the elements hit the mark.

Ramen Club 5-Star Rating System:

Food: 3.75 stars

Service: 4.00 stars

Atmosphere/Comfort: 3.25 stars

* RATINGS LEGEND: 1 star: weak * 2 stars: just ok * 3 stars: good * 4 stars: very good * 5 stars: superb or special *

Review: Ippudo Westside, New York

October 24, 2025October 24, 2025 ~ Frank Cioffi

In the lower level of a West Side brownstone, Ippudo Westside is a welcoming location.

A bowl hitting all the right notes at this lively, comfortable restaurant.

Reading my reviews lately you’ll know many of my recent ramen experiences have found one element of the bowl lacking. That’s why my return visit last week to Ippudo’s Westside New York restaurant was such a pleasure.

Open counter seating and cozy bar area in addition to seated tables.

This is a restaurant suitable for date night. You enter into a separate cozy bar area. The restaurant seating is split into a U-shaped counter facing the open kitchen, with comfortable padded-with-back stools, and a separate table area. It was a lively scene, with the place filled on a early Wednesday night.

Main ramen dishes. Other menu items too many to show here!

There’s a broad menu of appetizers, side dishes, drinks and sake. This had me concerned that the ramen might get compromised. Not the case. I ordered the Akamaru, a version of their basic tonkotsu ramen that adds garlic oil and their umami paste. I had to order the egg separately.

The bowl presentation wasn’t as elegant as the menu photo, but any concerns disappeared after my first taste. The broth was wonderful, perhaps a lighter version of their creamy tonkotsu, filled with flavor and a lovely lingering aftertaste. As the garlic oil and umami paste slowly blended with the broth, it had a light spice kick and added a deep richness. The noodles were wonderful, thin and cooked perfectly al dente with a subtle but distinct flavor.

The two very thin slices of chashu had good pork flavor and nice fat content. The egg was perfect. The menma, crunchy. This is the bowl of ramen I was hoping for, each of the elements executed well. It solidified the Ippudo chain as a high standard of ramen well above the oft-compared Ichiran.

QR code menu cube, but orders and payment taken by your waitperson.

The menu is provided via QR code on a creative wooden cube. Thankfully your order and the final check are handled by a waitperson. Service was friendly and professional.

Ippudo is a major, well-regarded chain in Japan and worldwide. I’ve been to Ippudo in Osaka and in Berkeley several times. Aside from one mediocre Berkeley experience, I’ve always been impressed. I had eaten at this NYC Ippudo seven years ago and remember being similarly impressed with the ramen and attention to details.

This trip to New York was short and I visited Ippudo on my last day. I wish I had gone sooner as I would’ve returned to try another bowl. Clearly, this is a very successful spot for Ippudo. On my next New York trip I’ll be back.

Ippudo also has NYC locations in the East Village, 5th Avenue and Brooklyn.

https://www.ippudous.com

Ramen Club 5-Star Rating System:

Food: 4.00 stars

Service: 4.00 stars

Atmosphere/Comfort: 4.00 stars

RATINGS LEGEND: 1 star: weak * 2 stars: just ok * 3 stars: good * 4 stars: very good * 5 stars: superb or special *

Review Again: Ramen Danbo, Seattle

March 30, 2025 ~ Frank Cioffi

Time to revisit the well-regarded spot after my scathing 2021 review.

I gave the highly-rated Ramen Danbo a negative review in the summer of 2021. That experience was in the middle of Covid, so I had to give it’s Capitol Hill location another try. I’m glad I did, because things have greatly improved.

The first positive change was the paper form provided to specify details of your ramen, including noodle firmness, spice level and richness of broth. This form, which some Japan-sourced ramen restaurants provide, is always a welcome addition. A staffer informed me that the order forms have only been available the last year and a half.

I arrived on a cold but sunny winter afternoon for lunch and the place was mostly full. Danbo specializes in Hakata or Fukuouka-style tonkotsu ramen, and I ordered the basic bowl. When it arrived I could see the preparation was true to form, as it appeared very much like the Ichiran-style tonkotsu.

The broth was flavorful with a good mouth feel. A lingering mouth feel. Again, very much in line with broth you would get from Ichiran or Ippudo. A touch of crushed garlic in the broth added a nice umami. The noodles, which I ordered firm, came exactly that way. Their flavor was fine, not much depth but good. The chashu was good, tender with just enough flavor. The egg was a misstep – almost hard boiled on the perimeter and mostly cooked in the yolk.

I always appreciate a nice selection of condiments and Danbo offers crushed garlic, black pepper, a soy blend and a chili sauce. I ordered the gyoza as a side and they were good: delicate wrapper, flavorful pork filling, and the char had a nice crunch. Service was friendly and efficient.

The missteps I saw in the summer of 2021 were likely caused by staffing issues around Covid. I’m happy to say Ramen Danbo delivers a fine version of tonkotsu ramen. No home runs here, but a solid player.

Ramen Club 5-Star Rating System:

Food: 3.25 stars (from 2.25 in July 2021)

Service: 4.00 stars

Atmosphere/Comfort: 3.0 stars

* RATINGS LEGEND: 1 star: weak * 2 stars: just ok * 3 stars: good * 4 stars: very good * 5 stars: superb or special *

Review: HiroNori Craft Ramen – Santa Clara, CA

January 24, 2025January 26, 2025 ~ Michael Tarnoff

A mixed bowl of expectations at this popular local ramen spot.

Tucked away in a small Santa Clara strip mall off Great American Parkway, alongside nine other eateries and – oddly – a dentist’s office, sits HiroNori Craft Ramen, a California chain with 15 locations and a Bib Gourmand recommendation. This location has a 4.4 Google review ranking and a 4.3 from Yelp. I visited on a Wednesday for an early lunch, finding the restaurant already half-full by 11:30am.

The interior is minimalist and functional: simple gray painted walls and a paneled ceiling create a utilitarian backdrop. The wooden tables are paired with plastic stools typically found in small Asian eateries. As a yoga enthusiast, I found them surprisingly comfortable. The space accommodates about 40 diners.

I ordered the tonkotsu ramen with the “original” thick noodles (thin options are available) and added pork buns to round out the meal. The service was prompt, and the presentation was promising. The ramen arrived with an aesthetically pleasing arrangement: a milky-white broth cradling two seared pork slices, green onions, spinach, half an egg, and a piece of nori.

The basic tonkotsu ramen. The egg was overcooked and too sweet.

The execution, however, fell short of expectations. The broth, while adequately prepared, leaned toward the salty side without the complexity that usually justifies such seasoning. I found myself searching for depth and nuance that never materialized. The noodles needed more character – both in texture and flavor – lacking the satisfying chewiness that makes ramen so enjoyable.

While the spinach and onions played their supporting roles well enough, the egg was a misstep – slightly overcooked with an unexpectedly sweet yolk that felt out of place. The pork slices, despite their attractive preparation and generous thickness, lacked the distinctive flavor that elevates a good bowl of ramen.

The pork buns followed a similar pattern. The bun itself achieved an impressive softness and chewiness but needed more flavor to shine. The filling, while decent, could have benefited from a different cut of meat and more adventurous seasoning. The pickled onions, though sparingly applied, provided a welcome contrast.

Pork bun could have used better seasoning.

The story of HiroNori Ramen is interesting. They claim to take great care in sourcing their ingredients, getting their noodle wheat from Canada. Today they delivered a serviceable bowl of tonkotsu ramen that can satisfy a basic craving. The food is consistently prepared and entirely edible – I finished every last drop – but it failed to excite or surprise.

While nothing (except perhaps the egg) was explicitly poor, nothing stood out as exceptional either. For diners seeking a simple, straightforward ramen experience, it’s a perfectly acceptable choice. However, those hunting for bold flavors, perfectly chewy noodles and that elusive umami experience might want to look elsewhere.

https://hironori.com/santa-clara-bay-area-ramen

Ramen Club 5-Star Rating System:

Food: 2.75 stars (a 3, if they removed the egg!)

Service: 4.00 stars

Atmosphere/Comfort: 3.0 stars

* RATINGS LEGEND: 1 star: weak * 2 stars: just ok * 3 stars: good * 4 stars: very good * 5 stars: superb or special *

Review: Hi-Life, Bainbridge Island, Washington

October 17, 2024October 24, 2025 ~ Frank Cioffi

Hi-Life on a rare slow day. Don’t let the appearance dissuade you!

A funky island spot with personality makes a fine makeshift bowl of ramen.

After my rant on the disappointing “just good enough” ramen I’ve experienced in Seattle, this post may surprise you. My hopes for Seattle ramen were/are high. But any opinion is based on expectations, isn’t it? So with expectations muted, I ordered the ramen at Hi-Life on Bainbridge Island, where I’d previously had some very good Japanese and Hawaiian-inspired meals and snacks.

Bainbridge Island is a 35-minute ferry ride from Seattle. Hi-Life is in a reconverted gas station steps away from the Bainbridge ferry terminal. The place is bare bones funky and friendly with colorful menus and a welcoming vibe; seating is picnic tables outside or a few indoor spartan tables.

It has a varied menu, offering poke bowls, poke by the pound, curry, onigiri, bento boxes, chowder, spam musabi and several Japan-sourced packaged food items.

With its menus displayed in posters, you’re immediately taken with all the choices. Japan and Hawaii are the food themes, with poke as the main draw. But tucked into a corner menu you will often find two ramen offerings: spicy pork and Tokyo curry.

Two kinds of ramen available, but only in non-summer months.

Given the many items, I wondered how they could pull off a good bowl of ramen. I ordered the spicy pork version. It became clear they don’t try to duplicate the full ramen experience.

The broth has not been cooking for 12+ hours and there’s no chashu to be found. It’s a simple, clear shoyu and pork broth. The meat component is ground spicy pork. There are sesame seeds and a bit of dried chili. The wheat noodles, from known provider Yamachan, are plentiful and good.

Some fried tofu chunks are added for texture, plus some chopped scallions. I also ordered the egg, which was a delight; not the usual 6-minute lava-like yoke, but closer to soft boiled. It added a luscious element to the bowl.

The nearly soft-boiled egg was a delicious surprise.

The broth was simple and tasty. The ground pork added an umami that worked very well with the other elements; it was medium spicy. Some thought went into this bowl, as the chef knows how to work within the limits of this establishment and still provide a satisfying ramen experience. It wasn’t close to the “pinnacle of umami” to which Ramen Club strives, but this “good enough” makeshift bowl managed to hit the spot on my two ramen visits there.

I should also mention that I’ve had some delicious poke bowls of salmon, Hokkaido scallops and tuna, as well as a black miso cod bento box that rivaled offerings at Bainbridge’s high-end restaurants at far less the cost. The owners also know how to hire, as staff are always friendly and efficient.

Fun vibe at Hi-Life. And yes, SPAM onigiri is available.

I love hole-in-the-wall places that do things well and with style. Hi-Life is a winner, and judging from its Yelp rating and how busy it usually is, it will be a Bainbridge fixture for a long time.

Ramen Club 5-Star Rating System:

Food: 3.0 stars

Service: 4.00 stars

Atmosphere/Comfort: 3.0 stars

* RATINGS LEGEND: 1 star: weak * 2 stars: just ok * 3 stars: good * 4 stars: very good * 5 stars: superb or special *

Review: Menya Musashi Tsukeman Ramen, Seattle

September 1, 2024 ~ Frank Cioffi

An authentic vibe, flexible menu and good service at this Japanese chain restaurant.

The only ramen spot in Seattle with tsukeman in its name caught my eye. Menya Musashi Tsukeman Ramen has 14 restaurants in Japan and others in Singapore, Taiwan, Malaysia, China and even Ukraine. There are two in the US: Los Angeles and Seattle.

Their menu has a variety of ramen choices, all tonkotsu-based, a selection of Mazemen soupless ramen and six choices of tsukeman, the ramen style with separate chilled noodles and a rich dipping broth. There are also rice bowls, appetizers, including takoyaki and gyoza, a few sushi rolls and a nice selection of beers and sake.

Tsukeman at Menya Musashi Tsukeman Ramen.

On my first visit there, I ordered the basic tsukeman and my usual order of pork gyoza. My friendly waiter informed me that if I ordered the tsukemen with a “combo” add-on, I could choose from a selection of appetizers, including gyoza, and get a drink for only $6 extra. I went for it.

Tsukemen: The noodles were as expected; properly chilled, thick and with an adequate chew. Noodle flavor was pretty good, though here’s when I started making comparisons to the world-class tsukemen I’ve had at Tokyo Station’s Rokurinshura and the originator of this dish, Taishoken (Kyoto location). While not at that level of flavor and richness – probably some of the best noodles I’ve ever eaten – these noodles were nicely done with a mild flavor.

The broth was where the comparison stood out; the flavors were one-note and didn’t have the deep richness I expect from a dipping broth. The chashu was good with a nice sear to it. The egg was good. Note the red chopsticks, rather than disposables. A nice touch.

Tonkotsu: I went back to Menya Mushashi recently. As usual, I ordered the signature tonkotsu with the combo add-on of chashu-don. First let me say – that’s a lot of food! Enjoying this meal with me was my wife and our friend Vassiliki (from Greece – a ramen first-timer). We also ordered gyoza and a shrimp tempura roll.

The tonkotsu ramen mimics what you would expect from Ishiran or Ippudo – a basic, solid Fukuoka tonkotsu. While it didn’t match the quality and depth of flavor of those two iconic ramen chains, it did a very good job. Noodles were fresh and chewy, egg was perfect, chashu had a nice char and good porky flavor, though a bit thick, and veggies and mushrooms added that nice crunch.

The broth could use an upgrade; it was nice and creamy but a bit flat for me. An elevated broth would have made a huge difference. Still it was a solid bowl. Vassiliki really enjoyed her first bowl of ramen, noting the “rich pork broth had a satisfying depth and a lingering aftertaste, complemented by perfectly cooked noodles and balanced ingredients that didn’t overshadow one another. I want more!” I think her ramen journey will continue.

Excellent gyoza at Menya Musashi Tsukeman Ramen.

I must comment on the chashu-don and other appetizers: gyoza were near-perfect, with light charred wrapper and delicious filling. The shrimp tempura roll was very good according to my wife, who tends to order these frequently. The chashu-don had small cubes of chopped pork slices over perfectly cooked rice; that alone could have been a light lunch (no photo because we chowed it down immediately).

Seating is comfortable. There are outdoor tables during good weather, though when we went in mid-August patio doors were wide open so even indoor seats got a nice breeze. Waitresses and waiters are friendly and helpful. No cash accepted. Interesting anime-like graphics adorn the walls. I love their logo; almost bought one of their T-shirts.

For a ramen spot serving so many other dishes, Menya Mushashi does a very nice job on the ramen despite the split menu focus. Going with a group offers many things to order and share. I left feeling I’d just visited a Tokyo restaurant.

Ramen Club 5-Star Rating System:

Food: 3.75 stars

Service: 4.00 stars

Atmosphere/Comfort: 3.5 stars

RATINGS LEGEND:

1 star: weak

2 stars: just ok

3 stars: good

4 stars: very good

5 stars: superb or special

Review: KO in San Francisco

June 5, 2024 ~ David Siegler

This new restaurant is a knockout ramen experience

A friend and I were heading to a San Francisco concert and wanted dinner nearby the venue. A perfect 5-star Yelp rating led us to KO, which just opened a few weeks ago. Did we ever luck out!

Like many ramen spots, it’s small and noisy, but the vibe is energetic and manager Eric’s friendly, informative service makes you feel right at home.

Complimentary edamame is always a nice touch, but the accompanying sauce was so good, my companion and I joked we could eat it all day. The chicken gyoza, unimpressive in appearance, offered a surprise. The first bite hinted at blandness, but subsequent bites revealed a subtle, complex flavor that won us over completely. The wrappers were light and crisp. They disappeared quickly.

Delightful gyoza and oh! that edamame sauce!

I ordered the KO Signature Ramen. It was one of, if not the, largest bowls I’ve ever had. Size wasn’t the only impressive aspect: the melt-in-your-mouth pork belly was the star, with three thick, finger-sized slices. Chashu was also present, but slightly overshadowed by the pork belly. Two braised pork ribs rounded out the protein options. While tasty and tender, they couldn’t match the pork belly’s glory.

KO Signature ramen with chashu, ribs and pork belly.

The thin noodles provided a wonderful textural contrast to the rich, creamy broth. Unlike some ramen broths I’ve had, this one wasn’t overpowering. I savored every bite without feeling weighed down, finishing the entire bowl (maybe a bit too much!).

My companion opted for the vegan bowl with green noodles, featuring broccoli and cauliflower. Though warned it was milder than the other ramens, he enjoyed it; and the single bite I tried was quite flavorful.

KO Ramen has skyrocketed to the top of my ramen favorites list. Scanning the menu and browsing pictures and reviews online makes me yearn to try more dishes, including the sushi. I rarely venture to SF’s Mission district, but considering the exceptional quality of the food, a return trip is a no-brainer for me.

Weeks after our visit, KO still has an impressive 4.7 rating on Yelp. Both my companion and I felt fortunate to have experienced KO in its early days, before long wait times become a reality. The combination of delicious food, friendly service, and a lively atmosphere makes KO a must-try for any ramen enthusiast. While the location might pose a challenge for some, the experience is definitely worth it.

Ramen Club 5-Star Rating System:

Food: 4.5 stars

Service: 4 stars

Atmosphere/Comfort: 3.5 stars

RATINGS LEGEND:

1 star: weak

2 stars: just ok

3 stars: good

4 stars: very good

5 stars: superb or special

Review: Tonchin “Tokyo Tonkotsu Ramen” (New York City)

March 30, 2024 ~ Frank Cioffi

Michelin-honored West 36th Street ramen spot hits most of the right notes, adding comfortable seating and nice vibe.

As you can imagine, there are many ramen offerings in Manhattan. Having previously tasted Ippudo, Momofuku, Ivan Ramen and Kame (all very good!), I was hoping for another hit. I found it at Tonchin, a Japan-sourced restaurant which describes its offerings as “Tokyo Tonkotsu Ramen.” It’s street appearance is nondescript, but walk inside and you’re greeted by a friendly hostess and three Michelin plaques (Michelin Bib Gourmand).

The interior is sparse, elegant and well-appointed. With no reservation at a weekday lunchtime, I sat at the bar. I immediately notice the padding on the barstool and the comfy seating at tables and booths – always a plus.

I decided against their classic tonkotsu and ordered the smoked dashi ramen, with a base tonkotsu broth plus clams, menma, egg, smoked fish oil (with garlic), radish sprouts, tobiko and seaweed.

I also ordered the Tsukune bun as appetizer. It had a ground chicken and pork patty, sesame seeds, karashi coleslaw, romaine and teriyaki sauce.

Wow! This was the best single course of a meal I had in my entire week in New York. The meat was flavorful and rich. The coleslaw had minimal dressing that complemented the meat in both taste and texture. The sauce was also restrained – delightful, and not overpowering. Perfectly constructed and delicious, it was an elegant appetizer.

This really set me up for the ramen, which arrived shortly. The appearance of the bowl was fine, and I was impressed by the tobiko. Never had fish eggs in my ramen before. The fish oil was prominent amidst the tonkotsu broth. I wondered if it might be too much, but I found the flavor of the broth-oil combo to work well together. At first, each element was a distinct flavor, but as my meal progressed and the two flavors blended, that’s when the umami synergy became apparent.

The clams were plentiful, making the accompanying discard bowl mandatory. The tobiko added a nice visual and a small crunch on a few of the spoonfuls, but not much else. The in-house noodles were fine, perfectly al dente; but given the excellence of the other elements, I wished they had a more distinct flavor (Ivan Ramen’s rye-blend noodles came to mind). The egg was well executed. Menma, crunchy. All in all, a very satisfying ramen bowl.

Tonchin’s menu also included tsukemen and a few other appetizers that piqued my interest. Their menu also includes many cocktails, sake selections, salads and a few non-ramen entrees. I initially wondered if they were trying to accomplish too much at the expense of the ramen, but this is clearly not the case. To survive in the competitive and crowded midtown NYC food scene one must suit the market’s needs and I think Tonchin does an admirable job.

Tonchin also has restaurants in Brooklyn and Los Angeles, as well as Japan. I will definitely revisit Tonchin on my next New York trip. Highly recommended.

Ramen Club 5-Star Rating:

Food: 4.0 stars

Service: 4.25 stars

Atmosphere/Comfort: 4.25 stars

*RATINGS LEGEND*

1 star: weak

2 stars: just ok

3 stars: good

4 stars: very good

5 stars: superb or special

Is “Good Enough” Ever Good Enough?

March 29, 2024 ~ Frank Cioffi

A recent transplant to the Seattle area expresses his disappointment – so far – with the local ramen scene.

A year into my move to the Seattle area and I’m still unsatisfied, and frankly, a little disappointed. I had high expectations given the many ramen restaurants here and, like San Francisco, a thriving Asian population.

I’ve been to Yelp’s five top-rated ramen spots in town. While one of them gets high marks, with the rest I found myself using words like “serviceable,” “not bad,” and the unfortunate “good enough.”

When the term “good enough” is used, it generally implies that something meets the minimum requirements or standards, but it may not be the best or most ideal solution. It suggests adequacy rather than excellence. … a temporary solution until something better can be achieved. -says ChatGPT (abridged)

That last line is where I’m at – waiting for something better. Given my research, I’m hoping it will be Midnite Ramen, a food truck (and soon-to-be fixed location) with a lot of great buzz. But first, a quick scan of my experiences so far.

• Ramen Danbo (Capitol Hill): I’ll refer you to my earlier review from a few years back, which spoke of salty broth and limited depth of flavor among other points. Admittedly, I need to give this acclaimed chain another try.

• Kizuki Ramen & Isakaya (Capitol Hill): A mixed bag here, with some impressive elements and others that fell flat. The broth was a tonkotsu shoyu blend and was nice. As I’ve experienced before, it was not complex. It had a single flavor profile, but a nice one. The noodles were the star of the bowl: chewy and al dente with a distinctive flavor. The chashu felt like an afterthought; it was rubbery and not very flavorful. The egg was near perfect, and slightly runny. Menma was limp and overly cooked. The overall presentation looked like the bowl was prepared in a rush.

I had the karage chicken bun as an appetizer. It was OK, but seemed Americanized, as the sauce tasted like a topping for a fast food burger. Service was good and the restaurant interior is nicely modern.

• Menya Musashi Tsukemen & Ramen (Capitol Hill): I was looking forward to a great tsukemen experience here. It was just fine. Broth had nice flavor. Noodles were OK, but no distinctiveness, key for a dish where the noodles are served chilled and bare. Chashu was good. All in all, it was an adequate bowl. Am I being too critical by comparing this to my experience at Tokyo’s legendary Rokurinsha and Taishoken? I will give props to the service which was super friendly and helpful. Plus the indoor-outdoor options make it a great fair-weather meal spot. It’s worth another try.

• Ooink (Harvard Ave): As you might deduce, at Ooink the pork is king. I really enjoyed their tonkotsu broth. It is deeply flavorful and rich. I ordered the Kotteri ramen which includes garlic oil. It was just enough of a blend to let the porky goodness shine through. Oddly, the chashu was disappointing. The slices were large and chunky, but I found mine to be lacking in richness and tenderness. Noodles were OK. Vibe is friendly but a little cramped.

My current overall favorite: Arashi Ramen.

• Arashi Ramen (Ballard): For me, this was the best of the bunch…for now at least. I’ll refer you to my previous review.

I’m not including the ramen shop where the chashu literally looked and tasted like a bland turkey slice. It has since closed.

I’ll close by saying that on a recent trip back “home” to Northern California I had some ramen at Menya Shono in San Rafael. The richness and execution of that bowl reinforced my perspective on what Seattle’s ramen lacks. I sincerely hope I get to change my mind after my next Seattle experience.