Review: Santouka Hokkaido Ramen, Seattle, WA

June 29, 2026 ~ Frank Cioffi

At Santouka, they take their broth seriously.

The best tonkotsu broth in the Seattle area.

I happened upon Santouka (Back Bay location) years ago as I wandered around Boston seeking a place for lunch. While not my revelatory first Tokyo ramen experience, it was a memorable early ramen moment. I promised myself I’d revisit Santouka if in Boston again.

Lucky for me, Santouka has two Seattle area locations near my home. I’ve gone twice and can confirm that its focus – “the white tonkotsu soup which you can slurp until the last drop” – is indeed worthy of promotion. The first clues are the five large, steel broth vats on display behind the glass kitchen divider at the University Village location.

The rich broth and attention to detail I remembered from Boston were apparent on my recent visit. Santouka’s website explains that its “pork bone broth is simmered for 20 hours until it is pearly white” and only then are vegetables, dried fish, kelp and other ingredients added.

I’m guessing some ramen restaurants take shortcuts, perhaps cooking their broth for only 12 to 16 hours. Santouka sticks to the original recipe it’s founder developed in 1988. While it’s impossible to determine how accurate this is, the proof is in the quality of the broth. I found it to be rich, subtle yet powerful, with a delicious lingering umami. Salt levels are imperceptible. Salt can be a quick fix for a lesser broth; that it’s used so sparingly is testament to this soup’s overall quality.

Rich and creamy is what you want in a tonkotsu broth, and that’s exactly what you get. The purity of the flavors shines through. I’ve had tonkotsu with more complexity than Santouka’s, but few with such a rich, tongue-coating pork flavor. The company hails from the island of Hokkaido, yet their broth compares with the best of Fukuoka, the originators of tonkotsu.

The restaurant offers a variety of menu options. I ordered a tonkotsu miso set with egg and a side of gyoza. I wasn’t thrilled with the haphazard plating of gyoza, but that thought subsided as I tasted the broth: the blending of katsuobushi (fish shavings), miso and other flavors was perfectly balanced. Whatever the exact recipe is, it hits the mark.

The chashu was tender with a nice light char and a tasty layer of fat. The egg comes in a separate plate and was nicely done. Booths are spacious and have padded seat cushions. I appreciated the comfortable chair at my table. The restaurant is clean with friendly, efficient staff.

Santouka is a well-run ramen chain with six locations nationwide. They’ve quickly become a favorite ramen spot in Seattle.

https://www.santouka-usa.com

Ramen Club 5-Star Rating System:

Food: 3.75 stars

Service: 4.00 stars

Atmosphere/Comfort: 4.00 stars

* RATINGS LEGEND: 1 star: weak * 2 stars: just ok * 3 stars: good * 4 stars: very good * 5 stars: superb or special *

Review: Ramen Ishida, New York

February 16, 2026February 16, 2026 ~ Frank Cioffi

Nearly perfect chicken broth shoyu. But just one misstep.

Chef-owner Yohei Ishida opened this tiny ramen shop in 2017 to acquaint New Yorkers with what he calls New Tokyo Style Shoyu Ramen, characterized by a clear shoyu broth made mostly from chicken. Given his background with Ippudo, it’s understandable he’d want to specialize in an alternative to Ippudo’s ubiquitous tonkotsu.

Given my habit to default to tonkotsu, Ramen Ishida seemed like the perfect outing. I went with my sister and we both ordered the signature bowl.

The “New Tokyo Style Shoyu Ramen” had a wonderful clear broth, shoyu with a pork and chicken base and a splash of truffle paste. The flavors were reminiscent of my Tsuta bowl, one of my rare transcendent ramen experiences. The truffle paste was a delightful complement and became more prominent as the meal progressed, but was never overpowering. Tiny bits of truffle remained at bottom of bowl at the end.

The noodles were thin with medium firmness and folded gently in waves. The egg was near perfect, the menma crunchy. A shiso leaf completed the picture.

I was loving this bowl until I tasted the chashu – a slice of pork and two slices of white meat chicken. Both had grill marks, but had minimal flavor and were dry. The pork chashu, to its detriment, had no fat. I got the feeling a lot of care went into this bowl, but that the chashu was an afterthought.

Chashu should never be this dry. Unfortunate.

This was unfortunate because if the chashu was at the level of the rest of the bowl, this would have been one of the better ramen experiences I’ve had all year. Other bowls offered included Umami Miso, Spicy Mushroom Pork, several vegan bowls and even a Ramen Salad, with no broth but a choice of dressing.

Variety of ramen offerings at Ishida (on a separate non-digital menu!).

The pork bun appetizer we had was OK, with slightly juicier pork slices in an OK brown sauce. Nothing special.

Ramen Ishida is a hole-in-the-wall place that seats 8 at makeshift counters. It’s a bit cramped, and there are those red stools again! Service was swift and efficient. As we were dining in early October, Halloween decorations covered the walls (Halloween is a BIG deal in Japan!).

The vibe from the owners and staff is friendly. It’s definitely a worthwhile destination. On my next trip to NYC, I’ll go back and try some of the other offerings, hoping – this time – all the elements hit the mark.

Ramen Club 5-Star Rating System:

Food: 3.75 stars

Service: 4.00 stars

Atmosphere/Comfort: 3.25 stars

* RATINGS LEGEND: 1 star: weak * 2 stars: just ok * 3 stars: good * 4 stars: very good * 5 stars: superb or special *

Review: KO in San Francisco

June 5, 2024 ~ David Siegler

This new restaurant is a knockout ramen experience

A friend and I were heading to a San Francisco concert and wanted dinner nearby the venue. A perfect 5-star Yelp rating led us to KO, which just opened a few weeks ago. Did we ever luck out!

Like many ramen spots, it’s small and noisy, but the vibe is energetic and manager Eric’s friendly, informative service makes you feel right at home.

Complimentary edamame is always a nice touch, but the accompanying sauce was so good, my companion and I joked we could eat it all day. The chicken gyoza, unimpressive in appearance, offered a surprise. The first bite hinted at blandness, but subsequent bites revealed a subtle, complex flavor that won us over completely. The wrappers were light and crisp. They disappeared quickly.

Delightful gyoza and oh! that edamame sauce!

I ordered the KO Signature Ramen. It was one of, if not the, largest bowls I’ve ever had. Size wasn’t the only impressive aspect: the melt-in-your-mouth pork belly was the star, with three thick, finger-sized slices. Chashu was also present, but slightly overshadowed by the pork belly. Two braised pork ribs rounded out the protein options. While tasty and tender, they couldn’t match the pork belly’s glory.

KO Signature ramen with chashu, ribs and pork belly.

The thin noodles provided a wonderful textural contrast to the rich, creamy broth. Unlike some ramen broths I’ve had, this one wasn’t overpowering. I savored every bite without feeling weighed down, finishing the entire bowl (maybe a bit too much!).

My companion opted for the vegan bowl with green noodles, featuring broccoli and cauliflower. Though warned it was milder than the other ramens, he enjoyed it; and the single bite I tried was quite flavorful.

KO Ramen has skyrocketed to the top of my ramen favorites list. Scanning the menu and browsing pictures and reviews online makes me yearn to try more dishes, including the sushi. I rarely venture to SF’s Mission district, but considering the exceptional quality of the food, a return trip is a no-brainer for me.

Weeks after our visit, KO still has an impressive 4.7 rating on Yelp. Both my companion and I felt fortunate to have experienced KO in its early days, before long wait times become a reality. The combination of delicious food, friendly service, and a lively atmosphere makes KO a must-try for any ramen enthusiast. While the location might pose a challenge for some, the experience is definitely worth it.

Ramen Club 5-Star Rating System:

Food: 4.5 stars

Service: 4 stars

Atmosphere/Comfort: 3.5 stars

RATINGS LEGEND:

1 star: weak

2 stars: just ok

3 stars: good

4 stars: very good

5 stars: superb or special

Is “Good Enough” Ever Good Enough?

March 29, 2024 ~ Frank Cioffi

A recent transplant to the Seattle area expresses his disappointment – so far – with the local ramen scene.

A year into my move to the Seattle area and I’m still unsatisfied, and frankly, a little disappointed. I had high expectations given the many ramen restaurants here and, like San Francisco, a thriving Asian population.

I’ve been to Yelp’s five top-rated ramen spots in town. While one of them gets high marks, with the rest I found myself using words like “serviceable,” “not bad,” and the unfortunate “good enough.”

When the term “good enough” is used, it generally implies that something meets the minimum requirements or standards, but it may not be the best or most ideal solution. It suggests adequacy rather than excellence. … a temporary solution until something better can be achieved. -says ChatGPT (abridged)

That last line is where I’m at – waiting for something better. Given my research, I’m hoping it will be Midnite Ramen, a food truck (and soon-to-be fixed location) with a lot of great buzz. But first, a quick scan of my experiences so far.

• Ramen Danbo (Capitol Hill): I’ll refer you to my earlier review from a few years back, which spoke of salty broth and limited depth of flavor among other points. Admittedly, I need to give this acclaimed chain another try.

• Kizuki Ramen & Isakaya (Capitol Hill): A mixed bag here, with some impressive elements and others that fell flat. The broth was a tonkotsu shoyu blend and was nice. As I’ve experienced before, it was not complex. It had a single flavor profile, but a nice one. The noodles were the star of the bowl: chewy and al dente with a distinctive flavor. The chashu felt like an afterthought; it was rubbery and not very flavorful. The egg was near perfect, and slightly runny. Menma was limp and overly cooked. The overall presentation looked like the bowl was prepared in a rush.

I had the karage chicken bun as an appetizer. It was OK, but seemed Americanized, as the sauce tasted like a topping for a fast food burger. Service was good and the restaurant interior is nicely modern.

• Menya Musashi Tsukemen & Ramen (Capitol Hill): I was looking forward to a great tsukemen experience here. It was just fine. Broth had nice flavor. Noodles were OK, but no distinctiveness, key for a dish where the noodles are served chilled and bare. Chashu was good. All in all, it was an adequate bowl. Am I being too critical by comparing this to my experience at Tokyo’s legendary Rokurinsha and Taishoken? I will give props to the service which was super friendly and helpful. Plus the indoor-outdoor options make it a great fair-weather meal spot. It’s worth another try.

• Ooink (Harvard Ave): As you might deduce, at Ooink the pork is king. I really enjoyed their tonkotsu broth. It is deeply flavorful and rich. I ordered the Kotteri ramen which includes garlic oil. It was just enough of a blend to let the porky goodness shine through. Oddly, the chashu was disappointing. The slices were large and chunky, but I found mine to be lacking in richness and tenderness. Noodles were OK. Vibe is friendly but a little cramped.

My current overall favorite: Arashi Ramen.

• Arashi Ramen (Ballard): For me, this was the best of the bunch…for now at least. I’ll refer you to my previous review.

I’m not including the ramen shop where the chashu literally looked and tasted like a bland turkey slice. It has since closed.

I’ll close by saying that on a recent trip back “home” to Northern California I had some ramen at Menya Shono in San Rafael. The richness and execution of that bowl reinforced my perspective on what Seattle’s ramen lacks. I sincerely hope I get to change my mind after my next Seattle experience.

Momofuku Instant Noodles – The Best Instant?

September 23, 2023September 23, 2023 ~ Frank Cioffi

Chef-marketer David Chang chooses wisely by outsourcing his instant noodles.

One of my favorite U.S. ramen bowls was at the Momofuku Noodle Bar in Manhattan’s East Village. Chef David Chang knows what he’s doing and the kitchen team executes with skill. A marketer as much as restauranteur, it made sense that Chang would hop on the instant ramen renaissance of the last decade.

Chang offers three instant Momofuku Noodles: Soy & Scallions, Spicy Soy, and Tingly Chili. I’ve tried both the Soy & Scallions and Spicy Soy. Each package, at a retail price of between $14 and $17, includes five individual packet portions.

Rather than make his own instant noodles, modeled after the flavorful barley noodles at his restaurant (too expensive to mimic?), Chang uses noodles from A-SHA, a Taiwan-based food company. Unlike deep-fried, how most instant noodles are produced, A-SHA’s are air-dried over 18 hours. Noodles are made of wheat flour, water and salt.

Chang’s site says the noodles are “different from instant ramen” and have 25 percent fewer calories and more protein. Of note: the word “ramen” is nowhere to be seen on the product packaging. I appreciate the simplicity of just doing the noodles..

I’ve been unimpressed with the noodles in several of the elaborate instant ramen, so Momofuku instant noodles were a pleasant surprise. The noodles are flat and wavy. I’d call them medium width. They have a satisfying mouth feel, a good texture and a distinct flavor of their own. The many reviews on the Momofuku site seem to agree with my favorable opinion.

Does air drying allow the natural flavor of the wheat to come through, where deep frying might mask it? Does it mature that flavor in the same way air drying does with prosciutto ham? Hard to tell, but it had me wondering.

A-SHA air-dried noodles: a slightly larger width noodle, available in multiple sizes.

One of my main criticisms of any ramen dish is when the noodles lack a distinct flavor or personality. The best restaurant ramen I’ve had threads that needle successfully. Many restaurants, unfortunately, do not. I’ve come to expect less from instant ramen, so it’s notable when someone gets it right. I’m not comparing Momofuku Instant to the best restaurant noodles. I am saying these are the best instant noodles I’ve had.

Given the care Chang put into finding better noodles, I wished he had put more attention into the accompanying sauce packets. I found both the Soy & Scallion and Spicy Soy sauces were pretty basic. I expected more of a premium product.

Tip: If you want to save a few dollars, rather than buy Momofuku instant, just order A-SHA packages, which has several noodle types available on Amazon and elsewhere. My taste test confirmed that the noodles are identical. When you order A-SHA, you can specify thin, medium, wide or extra wide noodles. Even the flavor pack of dried onions is the same. The sauces were similar.

I’ve found that a topping of sauteed chopped sausage and vegetables, along with the flavor packs, makes for a nice bowl of noodles at home. Enjoy.

https://shop.momofuku.com/pages/v4-5-reasons-why

https://ashadrynoodle.com

Arashi Ramen, Seattle

April 28, 2023April 28, 2023 ~ Frank Cioffi

My first foray into the crowded Seattle ramen scene.

I just moved to the Seattle area, where there’s no shortage of ramen places. My first bowl was at the highly-rated Arashi Ramen in the Ballard neighborhood.

The restaurant is a hole-in-the-wall eclectic spot with seating for about 25 people. Interesting Japanese posters and some unusual kitsch lends a casual, friendly feel. The menu has a good variety of ramen, most based on tonkotsu broth, a few rice bowls and some appetizers. They also seem to have a very respectable selection of Japanese beers and sake.

Arashi Ramen is a cozy, friendly spot in a funky neighborhood.

I ordered the black garlic ramen and my usual starter of gyoza.

The gyoza were excellent. The wrapper was delicate with a nice crisp char. The pork and chicken filling was flavorful and well-spiced; I’d even term it refined. Light yet rich, I could’ve eaten a dozen.

The gyoza and dipping sauce were superb.

The black garlic ramen arrived and I immediately noticed the broth, which was light and almost clear. Not your typical rich and creamy tonkotsu-based broth. I had to ask if indeed it was tonkotsu and the waitperson confirmed this.

Upon first taste, I was pleased to find the broth was delicious and well balanced The garlic oil added a richness, but wasn’t overdone as has been my experience with some past garlic ramen. Overall the broth was enjoyable; not complex but well executed.

The noodles were thin, al dente with a slight chew. They had a nice flavor. Nothing standout, but nice. The good amount of bean sprouts added a welcome crunch. The egg was fine, though slightly over-cooked.

The chashu was tasty but fell apart as my chopsticks grabbed it. I would have liked more integrity there. But it was tasty with just enough fat. Unfortunate it got overwhelmed.

The service was quick and friendly. Prices were reasonable. The street location is slightly grungy and isn’t in a well-trafficked area, so clearly this is a destination ramen spot. Arashi has another location in Tukwila, Washington.

Arashi makes a really good bowl of ramen. I left satisfied and would definitely return to try other bowls.

Ramen Club 5-Star Rating System:

Food: 3.75 stars

Service: 4.00 stars

Atmosphere/Comfort: 3.25 stars

RATINGS LEGEND:

1 star: weak

2 stars: just ok

3 stars: good

4 stars: very good

5 stars: superb or special

5AM Ramen: YouTube Review

November 26, 2022 ~ Frank Cioffi

These concise, informative and enjoyable videos are my standard for staying current with Japan’s ramen scene.

I like Ramen Adventures and the occasional ramen post from Strictly Dumpling, but I’ve landed on what I think is the optimal YouTube destination for the latest reviews, info and perspectives on the ramen scene in Japan: 5AM Ramen. I’m surprised I hadn’t found it sooner.

5AM Ramen, along with its standalone website, is hosted by Frank Striegl, a young man with a passion for ramen. He eats hundreds of bowls a year! Beyond his obsession, it’s his communication style I most appreciate.

Frank Striegl takes you deep inside Japan’s ramen culture.

Frank imparts a lot of useful information in a short timeframe, and in a conversational style. As a former TV newswriter, I know this is an art more than craft. No wasted time, too-long shots (to save editing later) or the filler chit-chat endemic to many YouTubers.

Pieces are well shot and edited, providing tasting commentary covering the flavor profiles and other characteristics in which I’m most interested; they are professionally done, but never appear too slick or stuffy. I’ve learned a lot from watching Frank’s videos, picking up nuances and taking notes for my next Japan trip.

At the start of each segment he reminds us he grew up in Tokyo, with a quick childhood photo adding a personal touch. While most of his pieces are in that megalopolis, he does a good deal of traveling, giving you an on-the-ground experience of regional Japan ramen specialties. I really enjoyed his recent piece on ramen spots in the Hokkaido city of Asahikawa, apparently Japan’s coldest big city.

I had a quick e-chat with Frank who told me that with Japan officially open, he’s been busy and slower to release new videos, but says “there’s plenty of ramen content on the way – in Tokyo but also in places like Fukuoka, Shizuoka, and Kyoto.” No need to wait though, as his existing content is considerable.

In addition to his YouTube videos, Frank’s website is loaded with content, including many photos.

As I started watching 5AM Ramen, I discovered Frank also has an international e-commerce business selling instant ramen typically only available in Japan. He also does in-Tokyo ramen tours. Normally a commercial enterprise connected to information content might raise some concern. But at that point I was so respectful of Frank’s videos, I found myself actually interested in placing an order.

This channel is worthy of clicking the YouTube subscribe button! I recommend you take a look.

QR Code Menus: Efficiency, but at what cost?

April 9, 2022 ~ Frank Cioffi

A now-familiar site at ramen restaurants.

One diner’s perspective on this COVID-accelerated trend.

Efficiency is a hallmark of the Japanese way. So it’s no surprise QR code menus have become popular at ramen and other Asian restaurants, accelerated by the low-touch requirements of the COVID era. This raises a question, however: for whom is it efficient?

What started as a fun alternative for me quickly became tiresome and a detriment to my dining experience. Apparently many others agree: a TimeOut-Twitter Poll of New York diners showed only 30 percent love QR code menus, while 70 percent say “bring back paper menus!”

I’m tech savvy, but my first experience with QR code ordering and payment, at the fabulous Menya Shono in San Rafael, California, was frustrating. It took me a while to get accustomed to the software and menu hierarchy. Once I did, I still hit the wrong back button which erased my selections. My two Ramen club buddies ordered separately, but that staggered the delivery of our meals.

Ordering another item mid-meal requires an entirely new payment. We’d figured out the system’s limits by our third visit, ordered all on one phone, and the food arrived together. Still, the ability to pay with two or more credit cards isn’t available.

Luckily the ramen-focused menu at Menya Shono is limited and easy to navigate, far from the vast multi-dish selection at Shinya Shokudo in Seattle. Navigating this menu on a 6-inch screen is challenging. My wife actually gave up and asked me to do the ordering. Luckily our waitress confirmed our order in person before relaying it to the kitchen (food was good, BTW).

Like anything technology-related, the software and user interface (UI) are key. Get them wrong and the intended benefit quickly fades. This is where the QR code process often breaks down for me.

My most elegant QR code experience was at Ippudo in Berkeley, California, where you scan the online menu but order from your waitperson, paying them directly at the end of your meal. Unless the menu is huge, this seems to be the best approach. Doing all three required actions on the phone – read, select and pay – can turn the fun and anticipatory element of dining into a bit of a chore.

Hopefully paper menus won’t become a luxury, but If QR code menus are here to stay, my suggestions are: get the software right, limit the function to menu reading, but leave ordering and paying to your waitperson.

Isn’t this a better approach? (from Nagi in Palo Alto, CA)

To answer my original question: QR code menus are efficient for restaurant owners, and in this now post-COVID timeframe I empathize with restaurants trying to get back to normal business. For many diners however, it’s not efficient and comes at a cost.

I don’t expect a fine-dining experience at a ramen restaurant, but I hope the human element of dining doesn’t get further diminished. Even at the simplest of places, I want the pleasure of being served. And don’t we already spend too much time on our phones anyway?

Review: Menya Shono – San Rafael, California

June 28, 2021June 30, 2021 ~ Frank Cioffi

World famous ramen comes to Marin County.

A world-class ramen chain comes to my ‘hood! And my quarantine from great ramen comes to an end.

An involuntary grin appeared as I tasted the broth of my first bowl of ramen in 15 months. Adding to my enjoyment was the location: Menya Shono, the newest restaurant in the acclaimed Mensho chain, and just a 15-minute drive from my suburban Marin County home. No longer would a drive to San Francisco be required to enjoy ramen at this level.

Fellow RamenClubber David had already tried Menyo with his wife and both were very pleased (“best duck [chashu] I’ve ever eaten!”), so when he, Michael and I gathered for our first Club outing since the pandemic, we were primed and hopeful.

Menu is limited, but will expand. Will there be ramen burgers in our future?

The restaurant had been open for a few weeks, so the menu was limited (the rumored ramen burger was not to be found). There were three ramen choices: two Toripaitan with a chicken soup base and a vegan Tantanmen. Only two appetizers were available: fried enoki mushrooms, regular or spicy. We missed our usual gyoza, but went for the spicy enoki. It was light and tasty – well executed for such a delicate mushroom.

We each ordered the DX Toripaitan ($19 US). David was a bit disappointed he couldn’t revisit his duck chashu (“they ran out of pork last time!”) as it wasn’t available now. The good news is that the chef is experimenting with multiple offerings. I hope the duck makes a return visit.

DX Toripaitan: with a chicken soup base.

Then came the bowl. I was concerned because I typically like a tonkotsu soup base. But that first taste erased any skepticism. The chicken broth was rich, flavorful and creamy. If you told me it was tonkotsu I would have believed it (never had a chance to ask the waitress if there was indeed some pork broth included). The broth clung to the noodles appropriately.

All the elements in the bowl were very good to excellent. The wheat noodles, sourced by Mensho, had a nice chewy texture; not the best I’ve ever had, but clearly they recognize noodles must have distinctiveness amidst the other ingredients. The pork chashu was rich and flavorful, with a nice crispy edge. The egg, split in two, was perfect.

All Mensho restaurants source their own noodles.

The other ingredients were fresh and delicious. I’m usually not a big fan of greens in ramen, but the broccolini added a nice touch. The entire experience was consistent with what I remembered at Mensho Tokyo, the chain’s popular San Francisco location, though Michael liked this meal much better than in SF.

Service was good and friendly, though menu reading and ordering happen via QR code scans. Personally, I’m happy to read a menu on my phone, but I’d prefer to actually order from a person. With each of us ordering and paying on our respective phones, I can’t say this technology amplified my overall experience of dining.

As in other Mensho spots, education is part of the design.

There’s indoor and outdoor seating. The chairs and booths seemed fine, though not particularly comfortable. Unlike the San Francisco location, this suburban spot likely won’t have long lines out the door, so customers shouldn’t feel rushed during their meal. We relaxed at our table for quite a while after finishing.

The current Yelp review already has Menya Shono as the highest rated ramen spot in the county. And now it’s open for lunch most days! Consistent with the heritage of this chain, it is highly recommended.

Mensho website: http://www.menya-shono.com

Ramen Club 5-Star Rating System:

Food: 4.25 stars

Service: 3.75 stars

Atmosphere/Comfort: 3.75 stars

Review: Ippudo Ramen – Osaka, Umeda

October 10, 2020October 16, 2020 ~ Frank Cioffi

Tonkotsu simplicity shines at this well-known ramen chain.

In Ramen Club we tend to focus on a broth’s complexity and largely base our ratings on that characteristic. More, deeper and surprise me have been my guiding principles. My bowl at Ippudo shifted my outlook solely based on the broth’s simplicity.

Ippudo, known as Hakata Ippūdō or Ippudo Shiromaru Base in Japan, is a restaurant chain with locations worldwide (Paris, Sydney, London, Beijing, among others). Ippudo is known for its tonkotsu ramen, and has been described as “the most famous tonkotsu ramen shop in the country,” though I can’t seem to source the origin of that description!

I visited Ippudo’s Umeda location in Osaka and was seated immediately at the counter. The vibe was friendly and the seats were well-padded for extra comfort (just like in NYC’s Ippudo). I started with their bite-size kyoza. Excellent! Perfect crispness on the skin, delicate wrapper and luscious filling.

A very comfortable counter seat, just like in Ippudo NYC.

Light, crispy delicious gyoza. Beer please!

I ordered the tonkotsu ramen. The presentation was simple and, at first glance, unimpressive. My first taste of the broth brought me back to my NYC Ippudo experience: simple, creamy, rich tonkotsu. Not complex, but delicious with good umami mouth feel.

The noodles were thin, firm and flavorful. Chashu was very good. Onions and burdock root strips were what you’d expect. A no frills, perfect bowl of tonkotsu ramen. The number of condiments that were available caught my attention and I started experimenting to good effect toward the end of the bowl.

Sidebar: My fellow Ramen Clubber, Michael, believes a bowl of ramen should be eaten and judged exactly as it came out of the kitchen. He thinks condiments are a crutch. I only partially agree. His is a European perspective that certainly applies to continental cuisine. The more I learn about Asian food, however, the more I realize that condiments can be an integral part of the meal, not a fix.

Tonkotsu is arguably the most popular style of ramen, so I can understand why Ichiran and Ippudo, both of which hail from Fukuoka (the originator of tonkotsu) are so well-known. My prior review assessed Ichiran’s tonkotsu as respectable, but not great. I’d give the clear edge to Ippudo, which takes this basic dish to a much higher level.

Ippudo U.S. website: https://ippudo-us.com

Ramen Club 5-Star Rating System:

Food: 4.0 stars

Service: 3.75 stars

Atmosphere/Comfort: 3.75 stars