Review: Santouka Hokkaido Ramen, Seattle, WA

At Santouka, they take their broth seriously.

The best tonkotsu broth in the Seattle area.

I happened upon Santouka (Back Bay location) years ago as I wandered around Boston seeking a place for lunch. While not my revelatory first Tokyo ramen experience, it was a memorable early ramen moment. I promised myself I’d revisit Santouka if in Boston again.

Lucky for me, Santouka has two Seattle area locations near my home. I’ve gone twice and can confirm that its focus – “the white tonkotsu soup which you can slurp until the last drop” – is indeed worthy of promotion. The first clues are the five large, steel broth vats on display behind the glass kitchen divider at the University Village location.  

Tonkotsu ramen with Hokkaido roots.

The rich broth and attention to detail I remembered from Boston were apparent on my recent visit. Santouka’s website explains that its “pork bone broth is simmered for 20 hours until it is pearly white” and only then are vegetables, dried fish, kelp and other ingredients added. 

I’m guessing some ramen restaurants take shortcuts, perhaps cooking their broth for only 12 to 16 hours. Santouka sticks to the original recipe it’s founder developed in 1988. While it’s impossible to determine how accurate this is, the proof is in the quality of the broth. I found it to be rich, subtle yet powerful, with a delicious lingering umami. Salt levels are imperceptible. Salt can be a quick fix for a lesser broth; that it’s used so sparingly is testament to this soup’s overall quality.

Rich and creamy is what you want in a tonkotsu broth, and that’s exactly what you get. The purity of the flavors shines through. I’ve had tonkotsu with more complexity than Santouka’s, but few with such a rich, tongue-coating pork flavor. The company hails from the island of Hokkaido, yet their broth compares with the best of Fukuoka, the originators of tonkotsu.

The restaurant offers a variety of menu options. I ordered a tonkotsu miso set with egg and a side of gyoza. I wasn’t thrilled with the haphazard plating of gyoza, but that thought subsided as I tasted the broth: the blending of katsuobushi (fish shavings), miso and other flavors was perfectly balanced. Whatever the exact recipe is, it hits the mark.

Chashu: flavorful with just enough fat.

The chashu was tender with a nice light char and a tasty layer of fat. The egg comes in a separate plate and was nicely done. Booths are spacious and have padded seat cushions. I appreciated the comfortable chair at my table. The restaurant is clean with friendly, efficient staff.

Comfortable booths with padded seating.
My chair was comfortable too.

Santouka is a well-run ramen chain with six locations nationwide. They’ve quickly become a favorite ramen spot in Seattle.

https://www.santouka-usa.com

Ramen Club 5-Star Rating System:

Food:                                  3.75 stars     

Service:                              4.00 stars 

Atmosphere/Comfort:        4.00 stars

          *     RATINGS LEGEND:     1 star: weak     *    2 stars: just ok     *     3 stars: good     *     4 stars: very good     *     5 stars: superb or special      *

Review Again: Ramen Danbo, Seattle

Time to revisit the well-regarded spot after my scathing 2021 review.

I gave the highly-rated Ramen Danbo a negative review in the summer of 2021. That experience was in the middle of Covid, so I had to give it’s Capitol Hill location another try. I’m glad I did, because things have greatly improved.

The first positive change was the paper form provided to specify details of your ramen, including noodle firmness, spice level and richness of broth. This form, which some Japan-sourced ramen restaurants provide, is always a welcome addition. A staffer informed me that the order forms have only been available the last year and a half. 

Always nice to get a customized bowl.

I arrived on a cold but sunny winter afternoon for lunch and the place was mostly full. Danbo specializes in Hakata or Fukuouka-style tonkotsu ramen, and I ordered the basic bowl. When it arrived I could see the preparation was true to form, as it appeared very much like the Ichiran-style tonkotsu.

The Classic tonkotsu ramen at Ramen Danbo.

The broth was flavorful with a good mouth feel. A lingering mouth feel. Again, very much in line with broth you would get from Ichiran or Ippudo. A touch of crushed garlic in the broth added a nice umami. The noodles, which I ordered firm, came exactly that way. Their flavor was fine, not much depth but good. The chashu was good, tender with just enough flavor. The egg was a misstep – almost hard boiled on the perimeter and mostly cooked in the yolk. 

Condiments and Kaedama!

I always appreciate a nice selection of condiments and Danbo offers crushed garlic, black pepper, a soy blend and a chili sauce. I ordered the gyoza as a side and they were good: delicate wrapper, flavorful pork filling, and the char had a nice crunch. Service was friendly and efficient.

Almost a full house on a cold January day.

The missteps I saw in the summer of 2021 were likely caused by staffing issues around Covid. I’m happy to say Ramen Danbo delivers a fine version of tonkotsu ramen. No home runs here, but a solid player.

Ramen Club 5-Star Rating System:

Food:                                  3.25 stars   (from 2.25 in July 2021)

Service:                              4.00 stars 

Atmosphere/Comfort:   3.0 stars

          *     RATINGS LEGEND:     1 star: weak     *    2 stars: just ok     *     3 stars: good     *     4 stars: very good     *     5 stars: superb or special      *

Is “Good Enough” Ever Good Enough?

Elements of a ramen bowl, at Ooink in Seattle.

A recent transplant to the Seattle area expresses his disappointment – so far – with the local ramen scene.

A year into my move to the Seattle area and I’m still unsatisfied, and frankly, a little disappointed. I had high expectations given the many ramen restaurants here and, like San Francisco, a thriving Asian population.

I’ve been to Yelp’s five top-rated ramen spots in town. While one of them gets high marks, with the rest I found myself using words like “serviceable,” “not bad,” and the unfortunate “good enough.”

When the term “good enough” is used, it generally implies that something meets the minimum requirements or standards, but it may not be the best or most ideal solution. It suggests adequacy rather than excellence. … a temporary solution until something better can be achieved. -says ChatGPT (abridged)

That last line is where I’m at – waiting for something better. Given my research, I’m hoping it will be Midnite Ramen, a food truck (and soon-to-be fixed location) with a lot of great buzz. But first, a quick scan of my experiences so far.

• Ramen Danbo (Capitol Hill): I’ll refer you to my earlier review from a few years back, which spoke of salty broth and limited depth of flavor among other points. Admittedly, I need to give this acclaimed chain another try. 

Tonkotsu Shoyu ramen at Kizuki Ramen & Izakaya.

• Kizuki Ramen & Isakaya (Capitol Hill): A mixed bag here, with some impressive elements and others that fell flat. The broth was a tonkotsu shoyu blend and was nice. As I’ve experienced before, it was not complex. It had a single flavor profile, but a nice one. The noodles were the star of the bowl: chewy and al dente with a distinctive flavor. The chashu felt like an afterthought; it was rubbery and not very flavorful. The egg was near perfect, and slightly runny. Menma was limp and overly cooked. The overall presentation looked like the bowl was prepared in a rush.

The “Americanized” karage chicken bun at Kizuki.

I had the karage chicken bun as an appetizer. It was OK, but seemed Americanized, as the sauce tasted like a topping for a fast food burger. Service was good and the restaurant interior is nicely modern.

Tsukemen bowl at Menya Musashi.

• Menya Musashi Tsukemen & Ramen (Capitol Hill): I was looking forward to a great tsukemen experience here. It was just fine. Broth had nice flavor. Noodles were OK, but no distinctiveness, key for a dish where the noodles are served chilled and bare. Chashu was good. All in all, it was an adequate bowl. Am I being too critical by comparing this to my experience at Tokyo’s legendary Rokurinsha and Taishoken? I will give props to the service which was super friendly and helpful. Plus the indoor-outdoor options make it a great fair-weather meal spot. It’s worth another try.

Porky goodness with garlic oil at Ooink

• Ooink (Harvard Ave): As you might deduce, at Ooink the pork is king. I really enjoyed their tonkotsu broth. It is deeply flavorful and rich. I ordered the Kotteri ramen which includes garlic oil. It was just enough of a blend to let the porky goodness shine through. Oddly, the chashu was disappointing. The slices were large and chunky, but I found mine to be lacking in richness and tenderness. Noodles were OK. Vibe is friendly but a little cramped.

My current overall favorite: Arashi Ramen.

• Arashi Ramen (Ballard): For me, this was the best of the bunch…for now at least. I’ll refer you to my previous review.

I’m not including the ramen shop where the chashu literally looked and tasted like a bland turkey slice. It has since closed.

I’ll close by saying that on a recent trip back “home” to Northern California I had some ramen at Menya Shono in San Rafael. The richness and execution of that bowl reinforced my perspective on what Seattle’s ramen lacks. I sincerely hope I get to change my mind after my next Seattle experience.

Arashi Ramen, Seattle

My first foray into the crowded Seattle ramen scene.

I just moved to the Seattle area, where there’s no shortage of ramen places. My first bowl was at the highly-rated Arashi Ramen in the Ballard neighborhood.  

The restaurant is a hole-in-the-wall eclectic spot with seating for about 25 people. Interesting Japanese posters and some unusual kitsch lends a casual, friendly feel. The menu has a good variety of ramen, most based on tonkotsu broth, a few rice bowls and some appetizers. They also seem to have a very respectable selection of Japanese beers and sake. 

Arashi Ramen is a cozy, friendly spot in a funky neighborhood.

I ordered the black garlic ramen and my usual starter of gyoza. 

The gyoza were excellent. The wrapper was delicate with a nice crisp char. The pork and chicken filling was flavorful and well-spiced; I’d even term it refined. Light yet rich, I could’ve eaten a dozen. 

The gyoza and dipping sauce were superb.

The black garlic ramen arrived and I immediately noticed the broth, which was light and almost clear. Not your typical rich and creamy tonkotsu-based broth. I had to ask if indeed it was tonkotsu and the waitperson confirmed this.

Upon first taste, I was pleased to find the broth was delicious and well balanced  The garlic oil added a richness, but wasn’t overdone as has been my experience with some past garlic ramen. Overall the broth was enjoyable; not complex but well executed. 

The black garlic ramen at Arashi.

The noodles were thin, al dente with a slight chew. They had a nice flavor. Nothing standout, but nice. The good amount of bean sprouts added a welcome crunch. The egg was fine, though slightly over-cooked. 

The chashu was tasty but fell apart as my chopsticks grabbed it. I would have liked more integrity there. But it was tasty with just enough fat. Unfortunate it got overwhelmed. 

The service was quick and friendly. Prices were reasonable. The street location is slightly grungy and isn’t in a well-trafficked area, so clearly this is a destination ramen spot. Arashi has another location in Tukwila, Washington.

Arashi makes a really good bowl of ramen.  I left satisfied and would definitely return to try other bowls. 

Ramen Club 5-Star Rating System:

Food:                                  3.75 stars 

Service:                               4.00 stars 

Atmosphere/Comfort:       3.25 stars

RATINGS LEGEND:  

1 star:   weak

2 stars:  just ok 

3 stars:  good      

4 stars:  very good      

5 stars:  superb or special