Review: Santouka Hokkaido Ramen, Seattle, WA

At Santouka, they take their broth seriously.

The best tonkotsu broth in the Seattle area.

I happened upon Santouka (Back Bay location) years ago as I wandered around Boston seeking a place for lunch. While not my revelatory first Tokyo ramen experience, it was a memorable early ramen moment. I promised myself I’d revisit Santouka if in Boston again.

Lucky for me, Santouka has two Seattle area locations near my home. I’ve gone twice and can confirm that its focus – “the white tonkotsu soup which you can slurp until the last drop” – is indeed worthy of promotion. The first clues are the five large, steel broth vats on display behind the glass kitchen divider at the University Village location.  

Tonkotsu ramen with Hokkaido roots.

The rich broth and attention to detail I remembered from Boston were apparent on my recent visit. Santouka’s website explains that its “pork bone broth is simmered for 20 hours until it is pearly white” and only then are vegetables, dried fish, kelp and other ingredients added. 

I’m guessing some ramen restaurants take shortcuts, perhaps cooking their broth for only 12 to 16 hours. Santouka sticks to the original recipe it’s founder developed in 1988. While it’s impossible to determine how accurate this is, the proof is in the quality of the broth. I found it to be rich, subtle yet powerful, with a delicious lingering umami. Salt levels are imperceptible. Salt can be a quick fix for a lesser broth; that it’s used so sparingly is testament to this soup’s overall quality.

Rich and creamy is what you want in a tonkotsu broth, and that’s exactly what you get. The purity of the flavors shines through. I’ve had tonkotsu with more complexity than Santouka’s, but few with such a rich, tongue-coating pork flavor. The company hails from the island of Hokkaido, yet their broth compares with the best of Fukuoka, the originators of tonkotsu.

The restaurant offers a variety of menu options. I ordered a tonkotsu miso set with egg and a side of gyoza. I wasn’t thrilled with the haphazard plating of gyoza, but that thought subsided as I tasted the broth: the blending of katsuobushi (fish shavings), miso and other flavors was perfectly balanced. Whatever the exact recipe is, it hits the mark.

Chashu: flavorful with just enough fat.

The chashu was tender with a nice light char and a tasty layer of fat. The egg comes in a separate plate and was nicely done. Booths are spacious and have padded seat cushions. I appreciated the comfortable chair at my table. The restaurant is clean with friendly, efficient staff.

Comfortable booths with padded seating.
My chair was comfortable too.

Santouka is a well-run ramen chain with six locations nationwide. They’ve quickly become a favorite ramen spot in Seattle.

https://www.santouka-usa.com

Ramen Club 5-Star Rating System:

Food:                                  3.75 stars     

Service:                              4.00 stars 

Atmosphere/Comfort:        4.00 stars

          *     RATINGS LEGEND:     1 star: weak     *    2 stars: just ok     *     3 stars: good     *     4 stars: very good     *     5 stars: superb or special      *

Review Again: Ramen Danbo, Seattle

Time to revisit the well-regarded spot after my scathing 2021 review.

I gave the highly-rated Ramen Danbo a negative review in the summer of 2021. That experience was in the middle of Covid, so I had to give it’s Capitol Hill location another try. I’m glad I did, because things have greatly improved.

The first positive change was the paper form provided to specify details of your ramen, including noodle firmness, spice level and richness of broth. This form, which some Japan-sourced ramen restaurants provide, is always a welcome addition. A staffer informed me that the order forms have only been available the last year and a half. 

Always nice to get a customized bowl.

I arrived on a cold but sunny winter afternoon for lunch and the place was mostly full. Danbo specializes in Hakata or Fukuouka-style tonkotsu ramen, and I ordered the basic bowl. When it arrived I could see the preparation was true to form, as it appeared very much like the Ichiran-style tonkotsu.

The Classic tonkotsu ramen at Ramen Danbo.

The broth was flavorful with a good mouth feel. A lingering mouth feel. Again, very much in line with broth you would get from Ichiran or Ippudo. A touch of crushed garlic in the broth added a nice umami. The noodles, which I ordered firm, came exactly that way. Their flavor was fine, not much depth but good. The chashu was good, tender with just enough flavor. The egg was a misstep – almost hard boiled on the perimeter and mostly cooked in the yolk. 

Condiments and Kaedama!

I always appreciate a nice selection of condiments and Danbo offers crushed garlic, black pepper, a soy blend and a chili sauce. I ordered the gyoza as a side and they were good: delicate wrapper, flavorful pork filling, and the char had a nice crunch. Service was friendly and efficient.

Almost a full house on a cold January day.

The missteps I saw in the summer of 2021 were likely caused by staffing issues around Covid. I’m happy to say Ramen Danbo delivers a fine version of tonkotsu ramen. No home runs here, but a solid player.

Ramen Club 5-Star Rating System:

Food:                                  3.25 stars   (from 2.25 in July 2021)

Service:                              4.00 stars 

Atmosphere/Comfort:   3.0 stars

          *     RATINGS LEGEND:     1 star: weak     *    2 stars: just ok     *     3 stars: good     *     4 stars: very good     *     5 stars: superb or special      *

Review: KO in San Francisco

This new restaurant is a knockout ramen experience

A friend and I were heading to a San Francisco concert and wanted dinner nearby the venue. A perfect 5-star Yelp rating led us to KO, which just opened a few weeks ago. Did we ever luck out!

Like many ramen spots, it’s small and noisy, but the vibe is energetic and manager Eric’s friendly, informative service makes you feel right at home.

Complimentary edamame is always a nice touch, but the accompanying sauce was so good, my companion and I joked we could eat it all day. The chicken gyoza, unimpressive in appearance, offered a surprise. The first bite hinted at blandness, but subsequent bites revealed a subtle, complex flavor that won us over completely. The wrappers were light and crisp. They disappeared quickly.

Delightful gyoza and oh! that edamame sauce!

I ordered the KO Signature Ramen. It was one of, if not the, largest bowls I’ve ever had. Size wasn’t the only impressive aspect: the melt-in-your-mouth pork belly was the star, with three thick, finger-sized slices. Chashu was also present, but slightly overshadowed by the pork belly. Two braised pork ribs rounded out the protein options. While tasty and tender, they couldn’t match the pork belly’s glory.

KO Signature ramen with chashu, ribs and pork belly.

The thin noodles provided a wonderful textural contrast to the rich, creamy broth. Unlike some ramen broths I’ve had, this one wasn’t overpowering. I savored every bite without feeling weighed down, finishing the entire bowl (maybe a bit too much!).

The pork belly stole the show!

My companion opted for the vegan bowl with green noodles, featuring broccoli and cauliflower. Though warned it was milder than the other ramens, he enjoyed it; and the single bite I tried was quite flavorful.

KO Ramen has skyrocketed to the top of my ramen favorites list. Scanning the menu and browsing pictures and reviews online makes me yearn to try more dishes, including the sushi. I rarely venture to SF’s Mission district, but considering the exceptional quality of the food, a return trip is a no-brainer for me.

Weeks after our visit, KO still has an impressive 4.7 rating on Yelp. Both my companion and I felt fortunate to have experienced KO in its early days, before long wait times become a reality. The combination of delicious food, friendly service, and a lively atmosphere makes KO a must-try for any ramen enthusiast. While the location might pose a challenge for some, the experience is definitely worth it.

Ramen Club 5-Star Rating System:

Food:                                   4.5    stars 

Service:                                4   stars 

Atmosphere/Comfort:      3.5  stars

RATINGS LEGEND:  

1 star:   weak

2 stars:  just ok 

3 stars:  good      

4 stars:  very good      

5 stars:  superb or special

Arashi Ramen, Seattle

My first foray into the crowded Seattle ramen scene.

I just moved to the Seattle area, where there’s no shortage of ramen places. My first bowl was at the highly-rated Arashi Ramen in the Ballard neighborhood.  

The restaurant is a hole-in-the-wall eclectic spot with seating for about 25 people. Interesting Japanese posters and some unusual kitsch lends a casual, friendly feel. The menu has a good variety of ramen, most based on tonkotsu broth, a few rice bowls and some appetizers. They also seem to have a very respectable selection of Japanese beers and sake. 

Arashi Ramen is a cozy, friendly spot in a funky neighborhood.

I ordered the black garlic ramen and my usual starter of gyoza. 

The gyoza were excellent. The wrapper was delicate with a nice crisp char. The pork and chicken filling was flavorful and well-spiced; I’d even term it refined. Light yet rich, I could’ve eaten a dozen. 

The gyoza and dipping sauce were superb.

The black garlic ramen arrived and I immediately noticed the broth, which was light and almost clear. Not your typical rich and creamy tonkotsu-based broth. I had to ask if indeed it was tonkotsu and the waitperson confirmed this.

Upon first taste, I was pleased to find the broth was delicious and well balanced  The garlic oil added a richness, but wasn’t overdone as has been my experience with some past garlic ramen. Overall the broth was enjoyable; not complex but well executed. 

The black garlic ramen at Arashi.

The noodles were thin, al dente with a slight chew. They had a nice flavor. Nothing standout, but nice. The good amount of bean sprouts added a welcome crunch. The egg was fine, though slightly over-cooked. 

The chashu was tasty but fell apart as my chopsticks grabbed it. I would have liked more integrity there. But it was tasty with just enough fat. Unfortunate it got overwhelmed. 

The service was quick and friendly. Prices were reasonable. The street location is slightly grungy and isn’t in a well-trafficked area, so clearly this is a destination ramen spot. Arashi has another location in Tukwila, Washington.

Arashi makes a really good bowl of ramen.  I left satisfied and would definitely return to try other bowls. 

Ramen Club 5-Star Rating System:

Food:                                  3.75 stars 

Service:                               4.00 stars 

Atmosphere/Comfort:       3.25 stars

RATINGS LEGEND:  

1 star:   weak

2 stars:  just ok 

3 stars:  good      

4 stars:  very good      

5 stars:  superb or special

Review: Ippudo Ramen – Osaka, Umeda

Tonkotsu simplicity shines at this well-known ramen chain.

In Ramen Club we tend to focus on a broth’s complexity and largely base our ratings on that characteristic. More, deeper and surprise me have been my guiding principles. My bowl at Ippudo shifted my outlook solely based on the broth’s simplicity. 

Ippudo, known as Hakata Ippūdō or Ippudo Shiromaru Base in Japan, is a restaurant chain with locations worldwide (Paris, Sydney, London, Beijing, among others). Ippudo is known for its tonkotsu ramen, and has been described as “the most famous tonkotsu ramen shop in the country,”  though I can’t seem to source the origin of that description!

Friendly staff!

I visited Ippudo’s Umeda location in Osaka and was seated immediately at the counter. The vibe was friendly and the seats were well-padded for extra comfort (just like in NYC’s Ippudo). I started with their bite-size kyoza. Excellent! Perfect crispness on the skin, delicate wrapper and luscious filling.

A very comfortable counter seat, just like in Ippudo NYC.
Light, crispy delicious gyoza. Beer please!

I ordered the tonkotsu ramen. The presentation was simple and, at first glance, unimpressive. My first taste of the broth brought me back to my NYC Ippudo experience: simple, creamy, rich tonkotsu. Not complex, but delicious with good umami mouth feel. 

Tonkotsu ramen at Ippudo, Osaka

The noodles were thin, firm and flavorful. Chashu was very good. Onions and burdock root strips were what you’d expect. A no frills, perfect bowl of tonkotsu ramen. The number of condiments that were available caught my attention and I started experimenting to good effect toward the end of the bowl. 

I love those condiments!

Sidebar: My fellow Ramen Clubber, Michael, believes a bowl of ramen should be eaten and judged exactly as it came out of the kitchen. He thinks condiments are a crutch. I only partially agree. His is a European perspective that certainly applies to continental cuisine. The more I learn about Asian food, however, the more I realize that condiments can be an integral part of the meal, not a fix. 

Tonkotsu is arguably the most popular style of ramen, so I can understand why Ichiran and Ippudo, both of which hail from Fukuoka (the originator of tonkotsu) are so well-known. My prior review assessed Ichiran’s tonkotsu as respectable, but not great.  I’d give the clear edge to Ippudo, which takes this basic dish to a much higher level. 

Ippudo U.S. website: https://ippudo-us.com

Ramen Club 5-Star Rating System:

Food:                               4.0 stars

Service:                           3.75 stars

Atmosphere/Comfort:     3.75 stars

Review: Waraku – Japantown, San Francisco

Waraku-Interior
Waraku’s interior, courtesy of Yelp photo.

A good bowl of ramen in a comfortable, well-designed setting. Order the upgrade!

The first thing I noticed upon entering Waraku is the decor. This is a real restaurant, where the owner put some thought into its look and feel, distinct from the spartan or cool design of many U.S. ramen places, where slurp-and-run is the implied message to customers. There are wood beams and panels that create architectural interest and appear authentic. The waitress confirmed they originated from a building in Japan.

The place was full, but no line. We waited just a few minutes for a table on a weekday evening. Noise level: blessedly, not too loud. And so we settled into a cozy booth.

The menu leads with two tonkotsu ramen choices (regular and roasted garlic), and also offers shoyu, veggie, spicy tan-tan and tsukemen.

David and I went for the tonkotsu, and Michael, for the shoyu.  We all “upgraded” to the deluxe version with extra chashu and other ingredients.

Waraku menu.
Waraku’s menu.

Of course, we always start with gyoza. These were lackluster, primarily because the wrapper was thick and doughy – what you’d expect at a lesser Chinese restaurant. The filling was nice; well balanced and tasty, but could have been more flavorful.

Waraku gyoza.
Waraku’s gyoza.

Before I critique the ramen, I must note the condiments. In addition to the traditional chili oil and ubiquitous-in-Japan togarashi (blend of pepper flakes used like salt and pepper), there was a bowl of whole garlic cloves and a handy garlic crusher. I’ve seen raw pre-crushed garlic before, but never whole cloves.

Waraku condiments
Whole garlic cloves among the condiments!

The ramen arrived and the bowl certainly looked abundant with the upgrade to “deluxe.” I’d call the broth a standard tonkotsu: flavorful, a bit creamy, but – for me – in need of some condiments to boost the flavor. By itself, the broth wasn’t particularly complex. If you’ve had Ippudo’s tonkotsu broth before, Waraku’s will be familiar.

The noodles were good quality and sufficiently firm. The ingredients were fresh. The highlight of the bowl for me was the chashu and the braised pork belly (kakuni) that came with the upgrade. They were both tender and flavorful, with a nice char and just enough fat content.

Waraku tonkatsu ramen
Waraku tonkotsu ramen, upgraded to “deluxe.”

As I neared the bottom of the bowl, I started adding condiments (I passed on the whole garlic cloves), which elevated the broth. I’m still figuring out my relationship with ramen condiments; do I always use them? At the start? Towards the end? Is my assumption that “the bowl” should stand on its own?

Though our socks remained on during the meal (😉), I’d say this is a really good bowl of ramen with high quality ingredients. And extra points for the comfort, decor and good service.

All in all, we enjoyed our meal and our time at Waraku. We will definitely go back, though with Hinodeya just around the corner, we will more consistently choose the latter.

Michael’s take on Waraku:

I went with the shoyu ramen, and actually got extra noodles – thinking they might not have enough in the standard bowl, and because I was hungry.  I didn’t need them, as Waruku fills their bowls with just the right amount.  

I need to take a tangent here, as it’s critical to my review. There are countless ways to make ramen, but for me, what separates the truly great Japanese style ramen from others is their attention to ingredients, and the time they put into making their base broth.  

For the broth, bones are boiled for a very, very long time in water, with vegetables and spices.  There simply is no sidestepping this process – although many ramen shops do so by adding flavorings after a simpler broth has been prepared. When they do this, they sacrifice depth and breadth of flavor. Waraku’s ramen is flavored by adding sauces to each bowl as they prepare it. Some people love this style of ramen – just look at the long lines at Mensho Tokyo in San Francisco. So far, I’m not a huge fan.

All that said, Waraku’s ramen is good. The noodles were a good quality, but needed to be much more al dente. They were too soft by the end of the meal. The special pork pieces they added were absolutely delicious.

As for condiments and spices at the table, when I go out to eat, I don’t want to have to spend time adding things to my meal so that it tastes right. That’s the restaurant’s job.

I’d give the food closer to 3 stars, and only that many because the special pork was really good.   

Waraku website: http://www.warakuus.com

Ramen Club 5-Star Rating System:

Food:                              3.25 stars

Service:                          4.0 stars

Atmosphere/Comfort:     4.0 stars